The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, Part 6

I've got a few days of catch up to do, in large part because of the ever-quickening pace that comes with being in the aura of the Big Apple, and because of my need for recovery from all the motley.    So, we'll start with the final leg of the trip that got me here.  

March 27, 2016

It's 4:30 or so in the morning.  I'm on the Capitol Limited high-balling to Pittsburgh, having only a few hours of sleep due to the knowledge that I would have to disembark at about 5:30 or so.   The sun just starts to peek out from the eastern horizon at a little after 5:00, to reveal hills in silhouette and the mist covering the valleys and the towns situated within them.   As the sun continues to slowly rise, the colors make themselves more known: intense shades of the greens of the trees and growth, the rusts of the industrial structures, the varying hues of the a-frames and Victorians, of both wood and brick construction, that pass us by.  The sky itself becomes and increasingly glorious blue, without a patch of white or gray to suggest precipitation.  

We roll into Pittsburgh.   One can see in short order, just from the distance, that there seemed to be much more to this city than Big Oil and the rust of dilapidated, abandoned industries.   The city seemed to have much in common with the smaller towns we encountered previously, as it's nestled in wooded hillsides, and serves as the meeting point between three distinct rivers.  

After about a 90 minute layover, we board the Pennsylvanian to begin the final leg to New York City.  

Between Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, we encountered much of the same type of topography on the first half of the trip.   Outside the coach seat window, we observed Huntingdon, a town containing what looked to be an antiques mall running along the route.  For some reason, when I looked at the mall and the antiques alongside of it, the two words that came to my mind were "shabby chic".   The Horseshoe Curve was also along the route, a huge curve cut into the hillsides that formed the boundary of a small lake and valley gorge underneath.    The curve is sharp enough to that if you're at either end of the train, you can see the the other end of your train as you're traveling.   Many a photographer-in-desire were pulling out their video cameras, iPhones, and SLRs to capture the vast vistas.   

Another highlight of this part of the trip was passing by the Altoona Rail Museum.    A roundhouse appears to be the centerpiece, along with the varying ages of rolling stock and locomotives in and around it.    A group of kids can be seen playing on one of the small play areas on the museum grounds.   I could spend hours at a place like this, so if I'm in these parts again, I just might stop in for an extended look-see. 

 After an extended stop in Harrisburg, we eventually arrived in Philadelphia.   A mystery ensued soon after we pulled in, as the head locomotive was detached from the train consist.  Why is this, we wondered?  Was there something wrong with the prime mover?  More brake problems, as I had on the Empire Builder just before coming into Chicago?   It took over one hour to get a catenary-line powered prime mover.  OK, I understand now.   The tracks are enclosed for a great distance going into Penn Station, and to run Diesel power down in those tubes and the station itself would be literally suicide.    After a sustained period of no power (and thus, no air conditioning and water pumps, thus no running water or ability to flush the commodes - I'll leave the resultant smells to your imagination), we finally linked up to our new prime mover, and soon after we exited the station, we took off.   Literally.   The speeds we obtained with the new loco were considerably more than the 80 miles per hour which is the operational limit of diesel power - considering the rate at which scenery was blurring past, this struck me as taking an Acela trip without paying the Acela price.    This was not just high-balling - this was hauling ass.   And given the amount of time waiting in a sweltering train consist, it fit me just fine.  

We sped through the rest of Philadelphia and the communities of New Jersey.   Among the sites along this route was the sight of Prudential Arena (home of the New Jersey Devils) situated only a few blocks from the crushing poverty of the surrounding areas of Newark.    After speeding through the rest of the state, we found ourselves in one of the tubes that led to Penn Station.  We stopped in, I hauled my backpack and roll around (I over-packed for this trip, and it was becoming quite obvious to me as I hauled my literal and figurative booty up the steel steps to the station), I snaked my way around the bustling masses and found a service booth, where I purchased my 7-day transit pass for $32.   These MetroPasses come in handy, and are a virtual passport to the city, especially if you don't make the mistake of trying to drive in it, especially in Midtown or the Financial District.   I took the 1 train Uptown to 103rd street, hauled my literal and figurative booty up two more flights of steps (again) up to the street level, and my hotel was just a few steps across the street.   Right there, in sight.  

I'll have more about the Marrakech Hotel in my next post.  

More Later.  

The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, Part 5

5:42pm.  Amtrak Metropolitan Lounge, Chicago Union Station

This one is going to be a two-fer.   That is, two days described in a single article.   

Yesterday, I made the move from the Ohio House Motel to the Marriott at UIC.   It’s about two miles west of the downtown area, and has the usual atmosphere one would expect from a Marriott, but not quite as expensive as a Marriott in the downtown area.   After a bit of housekeeping and setting up shop, as far as my computer and clothes were concerned, I got out of the hotel at about noon to head to the Field Museum.  

Located at the Museum Campus on the lake shore (and next to Soldier Field), the Field contained several exhibits of varying sizes, and as seen from the inside as from the outside, the place is massive.  As an appetizer, and as part of my City Pass coupon, I started my jaunt there with a 3-D movie about Egypt and mummification.   The film touched on the role of DNA analysis, and how the currently preserved Pharaohs still had their DNA intact in their bone marrow.   The potential discoveries from this type of analysis seem endless.   

Next was the extensive exhibit on the evolution of life on Earth, including a large section on dinosaurs.   Fascinating topic and exhibits, even if it’s something I’ve seen before in other museums.   Included in the collection is Lucy, the most complete dino skeleton found and assembled.   You can see the details of the bones throughout the structure, including places of calcification and possible damage.   There is also a smallish exhibit on birds’ direct lineage to the prehistoric dinosaurs.   There were also smaller exhibits on meteorites, vulcanism, and the culture and artifacts of Tibet.   

You will need at least one full day to get through the Field, and many of the events cost extra, in addition to the ticket price.   But the Field boasts an enviable collection of artifacts, natural and otherwise, and if done as part of the City Pass coupon, may be worth the trip.  

My next stop was to be the Alder Planetarium, which was a short walk away.   But, by the time I got there, it was closed.   Better luck tomorrow, I said to myself.   I wanted to take a Chicago River Tour, and Seadog offered these tours on their hundred-seat speedboats for $40/person.   I made a reservation, and after figuring out the mass transit situation, headed over to the Navy Pier. 

The Navy Pier is probably one of the biggest tourist traps I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen a lot of them.   It contains probably one of the highest densities of trinket/souvenir/novelty shops per person that I’ve ever seen, so I thought, OK, steer clear of those places.   Still, though, I couldn’t resist a small bowl of “Chicago Snow” (a non-milk, cream-ice product), which may as well have been falling as soon as I started into it because the rain and thunder came in with a vengeance.   Rain pelted the Pier, the windows, and everywhere else in Chicago as I sat and wondered about my boat reservation.   Will they cancel?  Can I get my money back?   

I had these questions in my mind when i sauntered down toward the end of the Pier (all indoors, but with a sieve-like roof), and discovered a Tiffany stained-glass window gallery.   A small gallery, but the price was good: $0.   The exhibits took on a church-like aura even though some of the themes were not directly related to religion.    Definitely something to stop by if you're in the area.  

I then headed to the Billy Goat Tavern Grill.    Here, I discovered that the concept of “salami” here was different than what I was accustomed to - a large patty that covered the bun like a hamburger patty rather than what I find on a pizza.   Still, with the condiments applied liberally, it worked.   Not what I would call wall-to-wall nutrition, but just enough to take the edge off.   

The rain was continuing to pour down, so I walked over to the Seadog office.    They told me that yes, my 7:15 architecture tour would be cancelled, and they kindly refunded me.    Next time I’m in Chi-Town, I’ll give them a ring…

This day demonstrated why changing hotels in mid-stream may not be the best decision.   I took the Marriott because I have points with their rewards program and wanted to add to them.   But, for future reference, the better choice would have been to stay at the Ohio House.  Lesson learned.   

Fast forward to today.

After packing my bags and leaving them in storage with the bell hop, I took the “L” Pink Line back downtown, and then Bus 146 to the Alder Planetarium.   Again, this trip was made possible by the City Pass coupon book - if you’re there for but a few days, get it.  After a bit of browsing of the exhibits (most of which seemed to be geared for kids, who were found in quantity and mostly in field trip groups), I headed to the main dome theater for two shows - one pertaining to the “wonders of the cosmos”, the other dealing with the solar system.   Both were led by live guides as opposed to a faceless narrator, which I found interesting.   The first show was created in a way that could be easily understood by most in the audience, and didn’t disappoint as far as using the dome for full warp-speed effect.   The second show, however, was definitely meant for the kids: cheesy, hokey, and requires someone of my age or older (or slightly younger) to turn off the more “mature” portion of their brains and pretend you’re a kid to enjoy.   

I didn't stay too long in the Alder, as I was limited on my tourism time and I wanted to see the Museum of Broadcast Communications.   I had heard about this place soon after I arrived in Chicago, I think it was listed on one of the Google maps I use to plan these jaunts.   I negotiated the mass transit, then walked a few blocks to said museum.   Places like this are, for me, like a candy store to a kid, and while the Museum was a bit on the small side, it didn't disappoint.   The first thing you see are the doors used on Oprah Winfrey's long-running TV show.  Up the stairs to the second floor, and you're greeted by a sculpture, shaped in a pyramid and about fifteen feet tall, made up of old electronic equipment and TV monitors, some of which were showing TV shows from the fifties through the eighties.    Turn left and in, and you're greeted by the Radio Hall of Fame.   Here, you'll find the names of some of the people you may listen to now, or have in the past.   I recognized the names of Jim Dunbar, Ronn Owens, and Mike Luckhoff (KGO Radio San Francisco), Rush Limbaugh (insert Bronx cheer here), Vin Scully, and many others.   There was also an exhibit devoted to Johnny Carson's tenure on The Tonight Show, including cue cards, monologue notes, props, costumes, and other related memorabilia.  There were the exhibits dealing with vintage TV commercials, musical/drama/comedy/variety shows, and other aspects of vintage broadcasting.   There is also a display of Edgar Bergen's original, made-of-wood alter egos, including Charlie McCarthy and Mortimer Snerd.   Even people with a passing interest in old TV or radio shows will likely find this museum to be a trip back to their own childhoods and formative years.   In short, it's $12/adult well spent.

(As a point of trivia, the founder and curator of the museum is a nephew of broadcasting pioneer Allan B. DuMont.  I recommend googling him - he's a key figure in TV's infancy, both from a manufacturing perspective and a content provider, having founded the DuMont Network).

After interesting conversation with  one of the researchers and with the receptionist, I slid out, having completed tourism of this town to which I must return.   Grabbed a bit of lunch, checked out a used bookstore (After Words), then headed back to the Marriott to collect my bags, finalize my packing, then call for Uber to take me to Union Station.   

As I'm typing this now, I'm on the Capitol Limited, somewhere in Indiana and headed toward Pittsburgh.   As with my other trips, I had dinner with three former strangers, all of whom were train enthusiasts of a degree much higher than me (and that's saying a lot!), and I heard the stories of various routes and their trips to Washington DC, Baltimore, and New York.   They're apparently going to be in New York next Tuesday - I might see them there.   

Enough for tonight.   Tomorrow is another adventure.   

The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, part 4

The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, part 4

After a bit of housekeeping, I started out at a new coffee shop, Asado Coffee Roasters, on West Erie Street across from UNAM.   Today, it was a one-woman show as one person was playing both roles of barista and cashier.   The non-fat mocha came out well, with the right balance of espresso and cocoa.   I’ll recommend it as an alternative to the chains, if you happen to be in these parts.  

I used my Ventra card (these come in handy - I recommend looking into them!) to take the 66 bus down to Michigan Avenue, to take my downtrodden laptop to the Apple Store for what I hoped would be an inexpensive repair, which turned out to be the case (a crashed hard drive, but under warranty, and most of my documents are saved on cloud servers anyway).  While the machine was undergoing surgery, I played tourist and headed to Millennium Park.   I made witness to the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a lovely amphitheater with a large metal sculpture above the stage which, to me, is reminiscent of the sails of a large sailing ship:

   

Next, was the Cloud Gate Sculpture, otherwise known as the Big Bean:

 

Like the fountain in Grant Park, this sculpture was a tourist magnet, with people of different nationalities snapping selfies and group photos around the the reflection provided by this sculpture-serving-as-a-mind-trip.    If you really want a psychedelic effect, or a case of vertigo, walk underneath the bean and take a photo straight up:

 

The reflections are, in a word, a trip.   

I then walked a few blocks, down to the Michigan And Wacker Corner Bakery Cafe.  It turned out to be a reasonably priced place to get a quick lunch, especially consider that were were on the tony “Magnificent Mile”.  I had a spicy chicken wrap (and boy, was it spicy!), and a pineapple and mango smoothie.  I also couldn’t resist in indulging in a Blueberry Hand Pie and a Vanilla Whoopie Pie.   I knew I was going to walk it off, anyway, so why not.   I was just finishing my last bite when the Apple Store called to tell me the computer was finished.  

After a few hours of rest back at the hotel (and additional laptop setup),  I headed back out to Grant Park.   I wanted to see it, and the surrounding area, while the sun was still out.   The scene was idyllic for this city and this time of year:  bicyclists, walkers, and joggers negotiating their way around each other on Lake Shore Boulevard and the walkway next to the lake, the occasional couple or family on the lawns, the sound of the lake lapping against the retaining wall, the sailboats and powerboats in the near distance.   I continued up the walkway, which branched out in different directions that took you to the Shedd Aquarium, the Planetarium, Field Museum, and Soldier Field.   All of those attractions within a very short walking distance from each other - uncommonly wise planning for most cities I can name.   I plan on heading back here for at least one of the attractions prior to departing for New York.   

I took the 6 bus over to The Gage, a higher-end eatery and bar with what looked to be a higher-end clientele.   Prepare to spend if you go here: my fish and chips (which were quite good) and Chimay ale went for $34 without the tip.   This is one of those places where you pay as much for the atmosphere and the opportunity to rub shoulders with the well-heeled as much as for the food or drink.   Afterward, I took the “L” for the first time in 5 years back to the hotel.   

More tomorrow.   

The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, Part 3

11:07am Central Time.   Onboard the Empire Builder.   

Sleep was in short supply this morning, in part because of the overnight thunder and lightning, and partly because of the sometimes-shaky condition of the tracks.    I got up in time for the 6:00 breakfast, which I took in with a couple of new former strangers - both from Indiana.   I'm finding out, first hand, what a great conversation starter train travel is, and how much people who do it enjoy it.    I heard about the different routes in the Amtrak System - the Silver Star, the Sunset Limited, the Southwest Chief, and and others.  I also heard about how it's possible to do an entire circle around the country in 15 days, with stops between cities, on one Amtrak ticket.    I'll check into that and get back to you, my loyal readers.   

This morning was spent largely alongside bodies of water, specifically, the Mississippi River and its tributaries.   We also learned, courtesy of the friendly Park Service volunteers, about the various lakes and streams (including Lake Pepin), the fish and other life that inhabit them, and what a certain particular life form is doing to them and managing them (hint: it's a highly advanced primate).   The waters seemed to go on, and on, and on, with cottages, houses, piers, and even small towns gracing their banks.   The water was quite calm today, and the day was somewhat hazy but with some blue peaking through.   Fishermen and their boats dotted the lakes and rivers as we passed by, along with the occasional speed boat.    After passing Winona (and the stories about Garrison Keillor and Winona State University) and crossing the river bridge (which also serves as the Minnesota/Wisconsin state line), we were met with vast, farmed flatlands nestled in wooded, rolling hills.   Another four and 1/2 hours of motley, and I'll be in Chicago for the three day Big Bean Dip sampler tour.   

6:01pm.   Ohio House Motel, Downtown Chicago. 

The train stopped longer than expected somewhere in either Minnesota or Wisconsin for an issue with "the air system" (I'm assuming the air brakes were the culprit.).  Fix put in place, and off we went. 

Milwaukee's skyline struck me as somewhat frozen in time, with all of the early-to-mid-20th century office buildings dotting the downtown area.   Of course, Miller Brewing was a prominent feature of said skyline, with the brewery and former corporate headquarters in view. (The company is now foreign-owned.). As I didn't get out of the train, I don't have an opinion to give about the city itself, but I see hints about the city's former industrial glories as the train moves through former factories and freight receiving stations.   

We turn south and head for Chicago.    Midway through this final leg, we stop in the middle of the right-of-way.   Minutes tick away before I hear over the loudspeaker that the train was having "mechanical issues", and that the crew were working as fast as possible to fix them.   This, soon after the air conditioning and all electrical power were turned off.   OK - this seems serious.   Another problem with "the air system"?   Or an engine problem - the locomotives generate the electricity for the rest of the train in addition to that used for the tractive force to propel the train.   About 45 minutes pass before the air conditioning turns on again, and we're told that we will stop at one more station prior to Chicago, then have to stop for systems testing one more time.   The time passes, the train stops at said station, and after a couple of miles, the train stops again.   Fifteen more minutes, and the train finally begins to lumber toward Union Station.   

We got off the train with the masses, and after enduring the diesel soot and loud volume of those massive machines and the phalanx of departing and boarding passengers, we make it into the station.   The station itself appears quite modern, making up in amenities what it lacks in old-time grandeur.   I got my iPhone out and pulled up Uber.   I got into a pool with two other people, and headed off to the hotel which just happened to be on the way of the other two passengers.   The fare to me? $3.75.   

Score another one for Uber. 

Got to the motel, which from appearances looked to have been built in the fifties or sixties and having a vibe which seemed to take me back to that time for a bit, but was completely remodeled.   Modern expectations such as Wifi and HD Television were present, and the room I entered was unpretentious and quite clean and comfortable.   One cannot beat the location, either:  I'm staring straight at Lasalle Street and the high-rises of downtown Chicago, so I'm expecting that the things I want to get to over the next three days will either be within walking distance or an easy ride on one of Chicago's many transit options.   

I might lay a bit low today, as I need the time for Apple to figure out what's wrong with my laptop.    But, once that's figured out, I'll be completely free to explore.   And share with you what I find out.   

10:49pm.  Back at the Ohio House Motel. 

I decided that no, I've only got three days and the evening is still young.   So, with the Google Map's app, I found a way to get to Hyde Park by the Subway.   I've taken the "L" here before, but not the Subway.   So, I bit.    

The feeling was like when I took the subway in New York for the first time - that anticipation that comes with a new adventure.   Using the Ventra Card turned out to be as simple as using BART or many other transit systems - just touch the card to the button, and the gates open.   Went about five stops, and walked over the bridge to Hyde Park.   One of the highlights from this mini-jaunt include the multi-colored fountain as it changed colors against the nighttime sky - there were several onlookers with hand-held and tripod-mounted cameras, taking still and moving pictures of the fountain's changing hues.   The view of the skyline itself was also intriguing from that vantage point.     

After taking a few wrong turns and getting off of the subway one stop too soon, (and thus, increasing my Fitbit step count which is a good thing), I found my way back to the Ohio House.   

Pictures and videos (which I've taken) coming up soon, as soon as my laptop is back to duty.   

The Big Apple and the Big Bean Dip, Part 2

May 21, 2016.  5:34pm.   

Onboard The Empire Builder

I’m in my Bedroom now, watching the Cascades pass by at a good clip.    Lake on one side and cut hill on the other side, providing contrasting hues of the red and gray rocks and granite against the greens of the trees and grasses, all set in front of a gray, overcast sky.   

The bedroom is, as billed, about twice the size of the roomette, with its own combination shower/rest room.   Like the roomette, one can set up two beds - one folds down from the couch, the other folds down from the top like a shelf.   The beds themselves look to be of about the same quality as the roomettes: somewhat stiff mattresses and, well, they work.   

The combination toilet/shower was one of the draws for me to upgrade to a full bedroom - no shared facilities mean more hygiene and less chance of bugs spreading.   I had the chance to use it for it’s first purpose, and marveled at how CRAMPED that little space is.   I barely had any room to move my arms or much of anything else.   I’m a six-footer, and age is revealing itself just a bit in my midsection, so I can only imagine how somebody of a larger size the me would try to negotiate this cocoon of a bathroom.    It also didn’t help that TP was in short supply in said bathroom - could the staff, having turned this room over (?), noticed and remedied that?  Also, in the past, Amtrak provided its sleeping car passengers with a small hygiene kit with shampoo, conditioner, lotion, and soap, all wrapped in a small, nice, neat little bag.    I guess that practice ended, because no such baggie was in evidence either on this trip or the previous one.    I didn’t pack these in my suitcase, either, out of anticipation of receiving something like this.   So, I’ll see if they have these in the showers downstairs.    

If not, then…I’ll make do. 

So, we’re on our way to Spokane, where we meet up with another train called the Empire Builder (out of Seatlle), and their cars apparently join with ours to make up the complete consist.   

3:37pm.  Either in Montana or North Dakota - somewhere.

We're speeding along the straightaway, probably clocking somewhere close to 100 miles per hour.   I have a few comments about the previous several hours. 

For one, when I boarded the Empire Builder in Portland, I was told that we would not have the standard dinner options, since the section of the train that houses the dining car was on the other half of the consist coming out of Seattle.  We had, therefore, "cold fare".   Mine was a chicken salad pita, lovingly prepackaged and prepared.    No extra cost, at least - it's part of the fare you pay when you buy your ticket.   

The scenery changed as expected, this time going through the rainy-yet-no-less-magnificence of Glacier National Park.   I have samples of videos I've taken from this stretch of the journey, with snippets of what the national parks volunteer tour guide told us while in the parlor car.   Interesting stories and magnificent scenery, this time covered in a darker hue of grey while the rain (and snow!) fell through that section of the Rockies.    During breakfast with a couple who are no longer strangers, they told me that views like this are why they prefer train travel.   I cannot argue - if you have the time (and the cash), this is the way to go.   You can see the towns in the lower-and-not-too-distant flats nestled between the hills and peaks, and scenes of a life only found in distant, out of the way areas preferred by those who prefer to keep to themselves.   

Later, we were in the prairies.    Seen are scattered scenes of grazing livestock, varying greens and Browns of the grasslands, waterways cutting through the flats and winding their way around, small towns filled with unpretentious housing structures, and a landscape that rolls gently rather than juts out suddenly.   Indian reservation lands and the dilapidated structures that dot those (and other) landscapes.   Buildings which look to be from the early 1900s (and before), such as the one-room school passed by a bit ago.   A butte or a distinct hill is a rare sight in these parts, and if so, often in the distance and seen with a very dark, almost-black silhouette.   

Friendly former strangers were also to be found, and with interesting stories to tell.    The Canadian couple who put on an Internet blues music show peaked my interest, and we discussed music and politics for the better part of an hour over lunch.   The lady I met from Southern California, who was going to see her sister in North Carolina, had many stories to tell of her own, keeping me enthralled for the better part of two hours.   And the couple I met at breakfast were just as interesting.   

I'm now accustomed to the sleeping arrangements on these trains.  I've learned to appreciate the upper bunks and have taken to them, even with the occasional pretzel twists I have to contort myself to in order to get into position.   I've discovered that the shower, while in a tight space, is workable if you take a few minutes and orient yourself properly in relationship to the shower's length vs. depth.   

But a couple of gripes.  First, still NO WORKING INTERNET! And cell service is only as reliable as the areas in which you pass by.   I could have used the AmtrakConnect network earlier today since my laptop is on the fritz.   Plus, the meals you get on these trains are pre-packaged, much like airplane meals.   Just heat and serve.   The quality varies, and does the opinions of said quality.   Those with fine-tuned pallets will probably not take to Amtrak fare.   My pallet is admittedly not as fine-tuned as those - it was passable as far as my pallet, but given the fare that sleeping car passengers pay for this level of service, are chef-prepared meals not something unreasonable to expect?  

But the positives? The ever changing scenery, and in areas where cars of other transportation modes cannot access, is one.   Another are the friendships you make and the people you meet, as well as the interest in train travel (as opposed to planes or anything else) being a common departure point for conversation.  

9:30PM CST.  Back in my bedroom (Car 2830, Room D)

We're stopped in Minot, ND, a few passengers taking smoke breaks while the rest of us take a respite from motion in general.   Earlier, dinner at the Dining Room car, and as always, conversations with who became former strangers: two from Iowa, one from Southern California.  I ordered the black bean vegan enchiladas (yes, Amtrak offers a vegan option!), which, even with the far-from-scratch way they were made, were quite good.   We witnessed a building thunderstorm in the eastern distance, knowing that the same thunderstorm may begin dumping on us by the time we get to Minnesota (at least).    

One more observation.   I'm amazed that the freight companies who own the rail rights-of-way upon which Amtrak rides allow these rights of way to fall into such unevenness and disrepair, because the ride on several stretches was extremely jerky.    On all rail travels, any given passenger will have to do the sideways dance while negotiating the narrow center aisle, but the sideways dance often took a dangerous Keystone Kops-type of air.   I can easily see people getting injured because of it (imagine the damage to freight that the freight trains are susceptible to while high-balling on these same rails), and Amtrak and the railroads need to do something about this NOW.   This is not about comfort or convenience - this is about safety, and potentially, the lives of those traversing these rails.  

More motley tomorrow.   

Back to the Big Apple with a Big Bean Dip on the Side, Part 1

May 20, 2016 - Day 1


8:22pm. The adventure begins.

The journey starts with my first Uber ride, at about 7:00.   Met about 10 minutes after my request by app (super-easy to use, BTW) by a gentleman, looking to be in his late-50s to early-60, in an old-reliable white Toyota Camry.   When he noticed my bags, he immediately opened the trunk and helped me with them - ahhhh, just like one of the more enterprising taxi drivers I used in the past.    The conversation we had was actually quite stimulating, he and I saying a common love of travel.   I told him about my grand scheme involving coast-to-coast by rail, he told me a bit about his trips to Italy and Europe.  The topic of car rentals also came up - he prefers to drive, I prefer to take transit and hoof it whenever I can.   We also shared a mutual admiration for European travel guru Rick Steves - with the great advice he gives about travel, packing, and how to get around Europe and not to be had by the tourist traps which all travelers ultimately fall into.   He left me at the Starbucks next to the station, and I did not have to pay anything out of pocket for the trip - it was already handled by the app.   I can see why Uber is so popular - convenient to use, available in my area, and the fare for the 15 mile trip between my home and the train station costing maybe 1/2 of the same trip one year ago. 

So, score one for Uber.

My first leg of the trip will be the Coast Starlight, departing at 11:59 this evening and arriving in Portland at about 3:30pm the next day.   Fifteen hours or so to sleep (I have a roomette), look at nature’s art while in the Observation Car, this taking the form of the Northern California ranges and the back areas of Oregon.  I took the southern direction of this same route about two years ago, at about this same time of year, in fact, while leaving Portland’s Rose Festival.    

So I’m sitting here in Sacramento Station, listening to the vocal and shuffling sounds of life echo like a church, a cathedral devoted to motion and a not-yet-obsolete form of travel which is firmly woven into our nations fabric.  Even with the obvious signs of remodeling - the white dividers cordoning off the old ticket office, the scaffolding and fencing outside - the station is filled with reminders of the grandeur and flavor passenger rail travel possessed in the first part of the 20th century.   The marble and granite flooring and hallway entrances, the long heated wood benches, the frescos on the ceiling, and the chandelier, all serve to create an atmosphere which tends to send one back in time to that bygone era.   The stations I have traveled through (Portland, San Jose, Sacramento, Los Angeles) all have this “classic” vibe running through them.   It’s good to see that there are still efforts to maintain them, as they are much more than a departure and arrival point between places on a map.   They are departure and arrival points in places in time - functional museums, if you will. 

There are 12 days of upcoming motley to describe, so stay tuned for stories and tips, photos, and perhaps, even a video or two. 

7:50am.  Onboard the Coast Starlight.

The train was about 90 minutes late - I never got the reason for it and didn’t really care.  Given the distances these trains travel and how many things can possibly happen between point A and B, I felt that patience would be a virtue in this case.   My patience was, for the most part, rewarded as you'll see below.

The roomette I have for this trip, when configured, consists of two seats facing each other which fold together into a bed.   The upper bunk also folds out for an additional bed.   It’s somewhat cramped, but sufficient for trips requiring a one-night sleepover.    Plus, you get the benefits of having a sleeping car room: your meals are part of the fare, so no additional cash layout is necessary.   Snacks and alcoholic drinks, on the other hand, are on you.  

As soon as I played my head on the pillow and looked out the window, the show of scenery changes already began.  Just as I started drifting into sleep (at about 1:30am - the train was late), I saw a full moon piercing through the clouds, breaking up from the earlier rains.   Sitting up for a minute, I saw the skyline of Sacramento, lit up in gold hues and seeming to glow with an energy of its own.   With the gentle drone and rumble of the train and the occasional shutting of compartment doors, I fell asleep. 

I woke up to spectacular mountain scenery all around me as the sun rises.   The varying shades of green in the vast expanses of trees and clearing.   The cloud cover lower than the mountaintops and veiling them like brides, dressed in whisper-light snow cover.  Streams that cut their way through the landscape and wind their way around like jewelry worn by those brides.   A dreamscape all around you, in every window you look through.


This, more than anything else, provides the compelling relevance for interstate passenger train travel.   You can’t get these scenes on an airplane, or driving.  

Not to mention, you encounter the friendly company one meets when traveling.   I met a gentleman, who I suspect was retired and traveling alone, who had a series of multi-day journeys planned - on the California Zephyr, the Southwest Chief, and the Empire Builder were but a few of the routes he named.    A friendly conversation was had with someone who used to e a complete stranger - this is a phenomenon that I’ve been a party to on many a train trip. 

So the good news: friendly service, a decent-if-small-portioned breakfast which is included in the fare, the smooth, quiet ride, and the scenery.  Even with the inadvertent sideways dance one does while walking to various parts of the train (which is inevitable on any train you travel), the ride was comfortable.   

Now for the constructive feedback news: the blankets provided on the train had a peculiar smell to them.   At first, I thought it might be from the recirculated air, but when I woke up and took a whiff, my first though was:  OK, were these used before, and were these cleaned prior to turning over this compartment?  I asked the car attendant, who assured me that the blankets and sheets were wrapped in plastic and were clean.   Clean - OK. But that wrapped-in-plastic part: can somebody say “fuming”, “leaching”, or other processes plastics go through when exposed to heat of any kind?  Doesn’t sound too healthy to me - Amtrak, if you’re reading this, please look into this.   Also, after I got to my compartment and headed to the rest room, I noticed that there was no water pressure to the faucets, and after I had put liquid soap into my hands.   A few tissues took care of this minor issue, but my reaction to the lack of water pressure could be summed up in one non-word: “Hmmmmmm…”.   This issue was rectified by the time I woke up.  

Oh, and uh, one more thing:  WHERE IS THE INTERNET?
(It's in the Parlor, Observation, and Dining Cars.   In the sleepers, it's a dicier proposition.)

A word about pricing. If booked two weeks in advance, the Sacramento-to-Portland leg of this trip was listed at $447 one-way.   The price includes the train fare, the roomette, and meals.  Yes, it's steep - I was able to do it because I had accumulated enough points on an old Amtrak Rewards Credit Card from my days as a traveling consultant.  I highly recommend that if you want to take a trip like this - a multi-day trip involving sleeping accommodations - that you consider getting the new Amtrak Rewards card and accumulate the requisite points.  I used about 37,000 points in total for all of the train-based legs of the trip. 

More to come.